PEARL 101

What are Flat Pearls (a.k.a. Coin Pearls)?

Coins in girls hand

Coin pearls, known informally as flat pearls, are disk-shaped jewels that are quite special in the pearl industry. Unlike the traditional spherical pearl, coin pearls are unique and when expertly set in jewelry, can look amazing.

The best part is that these pearls are affordable and abundant, so there’s no reason not to add them to your pearl collection.

Here’s a look at what coin pearls are and how to choose coin pearl jewelry.

How Are Coin Pearls Made?

Like all cultured pearls, coin pearls get their start in a pearl farm when a pearl technician inserts a nucleus into a mollusk. The difference between this process and that of traditional pearls is that here the nucleus is flat or coin shaped. This guides the mollusk into creating a flat pearl.

Coin pearl pendant

Coin pearl pendant. Notice the flat disk-like shape of the pearl.

See this here

As the mollusk secretes its nacre over the irritant, the pearl continues to grow, with each side of the ‘coin’ gaining in thickness. The entire process can take anywhere from about six months to several years.

If the coin pearl is harvested before its quite ready, the nucleus may show through the thin nacre. If the pearl is left too late and allowed to accumulate many nacre coatings, it can result in a ridged pearl that’s similar to regular baroque pearls.

Harvesting the coin pearl at the right time is necessary if you want that perfect disk shape.

Coin Pearl Characteristics

The most distinguishing feature of coin pearls is their unique shape. You might think that the pearl is fake, simply by looking at it because of its unusual shape. But coin pearls are natural and made of the same stuff as regular, traditional pearls.

Here are the main points to note when it comes to flat pearls:

  1. Coin pearl shape – we’ve already talked about it, but it’s worth mentioning again. The unique disk shape of coin pearls make them ideal for stylish, contemporary jewelry designs. While the round shape is the most popular, you can also find coin pearls in other shapes like pear, oval, square or baroque among others.  
  2. Coin pearl color – coin pearls come in a range of colors, much like freshwater pearls, because they’re typically formed by freshwater mussels. White, pink and salmon colored pearls are the most common in this variety.
  3. Coin pearl luster – coin pearls can be very lustrous if the nacre is thick and of high quality, but thin nacre results in lower luster. In general, coin pearls have gorgeous luster because of their wider surfaces.
  4. Coin pearl nacre – nacre thickness is important in coin pearls because if the pearl has been harvested too soon, the nacre layer will be thin and the nucleus may be visible through it. When buying coin pearls, always check for nacre quality and look to see if the disk nuclei is visible through the sides. Those are the ones you want to avoid.
  5. Coin pearl size – coin pearls range in size but are generally around the 10.0mm to 12.0mm mark. The typical Akoya or freshwater pearl is around 8.0mm to 9.0mm. This means that with coin pearls you get a larger looking pearl.
  6. Coin pearl price – like all pearl varieties, it’s the quality factors that impact the most on coin pearl value. The quality of the jewelry setting will also add to the overall price of coin pearl jewelry. While coin pearls used to be much higher in price, increasing supply to meet demand has resulted in prices going down making coin pearls more affordable and accessible to all.  

Coin Pearl Jewelry

Because of their flat shape, coin pearls, like mabe pearls, are comfortable and easy to wear. The pearls sit flush against your skin and don’t move around as much as round pearls would. Coin pearls can be made into a range of pearl jewelry styles. Here are some of them:

1- Coin Pearl Necklace

Coin pearl necklace

Cultured freshwater coin pearl necklace.

See this here

A string of coin pearls has an interesting look to it because at first glance it appears like a typical pearl necklace but a closer look shows the unusual shape of the pearls. Coin pearl strands come in a range of sizes, colors and styles. They’re perfect for evening engagements and formal events.

2- Coin Pearl Pendants

Coin pearl pendant

Understated, subtle coin pearl pendant.

See it here

If an entire strand is too much for you, a coin pearl pendant is the way to go. It’s classic, understated and minimalist adding just the right amount of glamor to your look without overdoing it. For added pizzazz, you can opt for a coin pearl surrounded with a diamond halo or a bezel setting with yellow or rose gold.

3- Coin Pearl Earrings

Coin pearls make great stud earrings, but they can appear quite large against your ear. If you don’t like that look, coin pearl drop earrings are an excellent choice. These are perfect for casual occasions and have a bohemian vibe. They combine well with other gemstones as well and make for beautiful designs.

4- Coin Pearl Rings

Coin pearl ring

Stunning coin pearl ring.

See it here

You wouldn’t think that coin pearls would work in ring designs because of their shape, but they are beautiful when properly set! Whether set in a bezel or halo mounting or simply set atop metal, coin pearl rings can be cute and boho or chic and elegant. They’re perfect to add a statement piece of jewelry to your look.

So, there you have it, a look at one of the more unusual pearl shapes – the coin pearl. Coin pearls are easily available, beautiful and affordable so there’s no reason not to add one to your pearl collection.