PEARL 101

What Are Shell Pearls and Are They Fake?

Shell pearl description

Everyone knows what a shell is and what pearls are. But what exactly is a shell pearl? This new ‘pearl’ variety has lately gained a lot of press lately and is getting quite popular as an affordable option to real pearls.

Let’s take a look at what shell pearls really are and whether they are considered ‘fake pearls’.

What Are Shell Pearls?

Authentic pearls are formed by molluscs when an irritant gets into the creature. It reacts by coating the irritant with layers of nacre, which eventually builds up and forms into a pearl.

Shell pearls, on the other hand, are created by humans using the inner lining of oyster shells, the substance known as Mother of Pearl.

This makes shell pearls quite interesting, because although they’re made by humans, they are made of the same materials as real pearls.

How Are Shell Pearls Made?

Shell pearl

Unlike imitation pearls which contain glass or plastic, the base of shell pearls is nacre. The pearl is made using a bead of mother-of-pearl.

First, nacre is collected, then pulverized and combined with other materials to form pearls. The outer surface is then coated and polished to attain the luster that we associate with pearls.  

Taken this way, shell pearls are fake pearls, but they’re made using the same ingredients as a cultured pearl. Because of this, we like to think of shell pearl as synthetic pearl or lab-created pearl, rather than a fake pearl. Although the process is different, shell pearls, in essence, are quite similar to lab-created gemstones.

Shell Pearl Characteristics

Shell pearls may look like real pearls, but there are some major differences between these two types:

1- Shell Pearl Color

Unlike real pearls, shell pearls can come in a wide range of colors, from neon blue to hot pink to mint green. They can also be colored to imitate the neutral hues of Akoya pearls, the golden color of South Sea and the darker shades of Tahitian pearls.

2- Shell Pearl Price

Shell pearls provide an affordable alternative to authentic pearls which are much more expensive. For example, a strand of Akoya pearls that cost $300 might only cost about $30 and yet you might be hard-pressed to find the difference between the two.

This can also pose a problem to potential buyers because some sellers may describe their shell pearl product as ‘real pearls’ and sell them at much higher prices.

Take a look at the product description below which very clearly and accurately describes shell pearls. This is ideally what you’d be looking for to avoid any misconceptions.

Shell pearl description

Example of an honest shell pearl product description. Source

On the other hand, this description also for a shell pearl necklace, is quite ambiguous. The seller has listed the gemstone as pearl but has named the product a South Sea shell pearl necklace. They then continue calling the product a pearl.

Misleading product description shell pearl

Example of a confusing/misleading shell pearl product description.

For someone who doesn’t know the difference between a pearl and a shell pearl, this listing can be very confusing, and they may not even notice the difference in the terms used. However, because the product is only $9.99, at least we could argue that the seller isn’t trying to profit from the buyer’s ignorance. The price and the use of the word shell once are the only clues that this isn’t a genuine pearl strand. Quite misleading.

3- Shell Pearl Quality

While it might be easy to dismiss shell pearls as fakes, in reality, most have high quality and a beautiful appearance. Shell pearls can be manipulated by the manufacturers to create the best shape, color, size and surface quality, creating the perfect pearl.

The quality of shell pearl is largely determined by the quality of the nacre that’s used to make it. Newer shells make for better nacre quality than older shells that have been stored for a long time.

4- Shell Pearl Durability

Shell pearls are more durable than genuine pearls, because of the way they’ve been created. They don’t tend to discolor or fade and are more resistant to damage. They can tolerate chemicals, sweat, body oils and detergents better than real pearls.

There are stringent measures in place in the shell pearl industry that ensure that the pearls are durable and able to withstand exposure.

How to Tell Shell Pearls Apart from Real Pearls

One of the main giveaways is the price of the jewelry. Real pearls can cost over 90% of what shell pearl jewelry are sold for. If the price seems too good to be true, the pearl jewelry you’re looking at is probably shell pearl (or imitation pearl).

The color of shell pearls is also a giveaway. As mentioned before, shell pearls come in a wide variety of colors, including artificial-looking hues. Real pearls don’t come in these uncommon colors. However, beware of shell pearls with color that mimic real pearls.

Should I Avoid Shell Pearls?

There’s nothing wrong with shell pearls, as long as you know that the product you’re buying is a shell pearl. The problem is when shell pearls are being sold to you as real pearls. As long as you check carefully with your vendor about this and ask all your questions prior to purchase, you should be fine.

As we’ve mentioned above, shell pearls offer a lot of benefits to the buyer. In addition to that, it’s a way to use up a part of the oyster shell that would otherwise go to waste. It’s a more sustainable option, as it allows for more ‘pearls’ to be made from a single oyster.

Shell pearls are perfect if budget is a concern, but you want the look without the price tag. No one would be able to tell the difference and one could argue that you’d essentially be getting the same stuff, just made in a different way.

Only avoid shell pearls if:

  • You want authentic natural or cultured pearls
  • Budget isn’t a concern
  • You want to invest in a valuable piece of jewelry
  • You want to be able to pass on your piece of pearl jewelry in the future, like an heirloom
  • You don’t like the idea of created pearls
  • You don’t want a wide range of unnatural pearl colors to choose from

Where to Buy Shell Pearl Jewelry

Shell pearls are growing in popularity and an increasing number of jewelers are now stocking products made of this material.

First and foremost, it’s important to choose a retailer with a proven track record. Find a pearl specialist or a retailer who has good customer reviews and is willing to answer your questions.

Always check the after sales policies just in case. And make note of the price to ensure that you aren’t getting ripped off.

We recommend starting your shell pearl search on Amazon or Etsy, both of which have impressive shell pearl collections. These range in style and budget so there’s bound to be a piece that you love.

Start searching here.